2011-12 Snow reporters Elizabeth and Carrie Lee discuss new snow depth on a powder day.
It's a common misconception that Big Sky's Snow Reporter job is the plushest in town - picturing a hung over twenty-something rolling out of bed at 5 am, checking a yardstick in his backyard, calling the snow phone with the report, and then calling it a day would make anyone envious for that kind of easy, low-responsibility job. But getting out the conditions report for 4,050 skiable acres is a long and involved process - one that starts at 4pm the evening before and doesn't end until well into the next day. And the Snow Reporters? Late night at the Black Bear or no, they've got to be up at 4am and ready to put in a full 8 hour day.
4:00pm: The morning snow report begins the night before with Big Sky's Ski Patrol crew. As the mountain is closing, Ski Patrol calls the Snow Reporter desk and leaves a message with the day's high and low temps, the wind conditions, and the snowfall. This information is used in the weather section of Big Sky's following day report.
4:00pm - 8:00am: The grooming crew takes to the slopes to begin the long task of grooming and shaping the slopes. As they work throughout the night, groomers also the keep tabs on the weather and snowfall.
4:55am: Groomers measure overnight snowfall and base depth at the scientific Lobo station. This location has been used for 35 years and provides an accurate mid-mountain snowfall total. The upper mountain is too dangerous to measure this early considering avalanche control work yet to be done.
5:00am: Groomers call or radio the Snow Reporter with the overnight snowfall totals, base, and any relevant weather information. The Snow Reporter then faxes the overnight totals, terrain openings, weather, and other resort info across the country and updates bigskyresort.com for the early risers. Numerous other websites, from Snocountry to Travel Montana, are updated with this early information, and then thousands of other sites scrape the information while we all sleep. This is all done before 6 a.m. but usually closer to 5:30a.m.
5:15am: The Snow Reporter updates the snow phone with the collected information. This is the early phone update and it will be updated several more times throughout the morning and day.
5:45am: Groomers drop off a report of their groomed runs at the base area for the reporter to pick up and add to our report and grooming map.
8:00am: Patrol calls in with snow conditions from the top of lone peak and the snow reporter makes any necessary updates to the snow report and snow phone.
8:00am - 12:00pm: As the Snow Safety team and Patrol gather for their safety and control runs they will call or radio the reporter with any snowfall updates. Many times Big Sky will receive several inches of snow between the time of the original report and when the chairlifts start turning. When it's snowing hard, the patrol and reporter will remain in contact with updates throughout the morning, especially when reports come in like knee deep, thigh deep, or waist deep off the south face, when perhaps only 4-6 inches fell mid-mountain.
In between all of these steps, the Snow Reporters are calling radio stations and local businesses, faxing and emailing out reports, creating and distributing grooming maps, and updating the report on multiple different platforms and outlets. We'll spare you the gory details, but when it comes down to it, snow reporting is a complex position that involves many elements beyond the actual snow phone. It's a process that requires constant communication between the mountain operations teams and the crew inside spreading the messages.
We often joke that it truly is impossible to accurately measure snow when it comes to a mountain that is the biggest in America and faces every direction on the map, and the snow reporters always try to report a range of snowfall that gives a sense of snow all over the mounatin. But no matter what the report says, with 400 inches of snow a year and such a variety of terrain, you're sure to find great conditions - any day at Big Sky.
In the winter, Big Sky's Huntley Dining Room is known for one mean breakfast buffet. But come summer (read: wedding season), the Huntley Dining Room takes on a whole new role - chafing dishes full of scrambled eggs and bacon are replaced with ivory linens and breathtaking floral centerpieces. And the occasional hay bale.
Think elegant and civilized meets rugged wild west. Last week I met with a bride-to-be whose wedding will be just that. While her life and career may have taken her to the big city, her Montana roots remain as strong as the reins on the Quarter Horses at her parents nearby ranch. This bride's upcoming wedding will be a weekend-long event, kicking off with a western-themed bar-b-que for over 300 people in the Huntley Dining Room. There will be s'mores around the fire, a wagon filled with penny candy, red and white checkered tablecloths, BBQ pulled pork, and, a mechanical bull. After a few rounds on a bucking bronco and several trips to the dance floor, guests will kick off their boots in either the four-star Summit Hotel or the luxurious Village Center - both within a short walking distance of the reception .
Other brides lean towards the more traditional, focusing on the grandeur of the outdoor beauty at Big Sky. Just a week after one bride's western bar-b-que, another will celebrate outdoors in the Lone Peak Pavilion as the sun sets behind the towering mountain. Guests will sip on fine wine, munch on mini bison steaks served on Montana grain crostini, and sway their hips to a local Bluegrass band.
But no matter which end of the spectrum a wedding leans towards, there's no divorcing it from Big Sky's sense of place and culture. Like the GeoTraveler, making sure to experience the local culture wherever she roams, a wedding at Big Sky is for the GeoBride, finding elegance and beauty in what is distinctly Montana.
- Margo Humphries, Big Sky Resort Wedding Sales Manager
Ullr, the rippin' skier of Norse Mythology and modern-day ski bum god of snow.
Skiers come from all sorts of religious backgrounds, ranging from the devout to the atheist. But no matter their spiritual beliefs, come ski season, many skiers find themselves praying. Praying for snow.
Some just cross their fingers, others may kneel by their bedside in formal prayer. Some even take it to the extreme, burning old skis in sacrifice to the ski god, Ullr.
Ullr, commonly known to 21st century ski bums as the god of snow, is a figure in Norse Mythology whose tradition lives on in modern ski culture. While historically he was never said to have any connection to the weather, he was known as a rippin' skier diety, often depicted on skis while holding his bow. "He is such a good archer and ski-runner that no one can rival him," states the 13th century Prose Edda.
Now, modern skiers look to Ullr to bring on the pow, and across the country you can find Pray for Snow parties, organized snow dances, frozen t-shirt contests, and rounds of shotskis filled with Ullr peppermint cinnamon schnapps helping ring in the ski season. Not quite your grandmothers Sunday services, but just as steeped in tradition and ritual.
Here in Big Sky, Ullr is often invoked and called upon, and last year he delivered with a heaping dose of La Nina. This season, after a week of praying over thanksgiving dinners and leftovers, we got our first real powder day this last weekend. With a taste of the good stuff, I'm starting to feel that religious pull again as we wait for the next big storm, and I, for one, will be including Ullr in my prayers all winter long.
With less that epic ski conditions in Colorado, and Colorado's Epic Pass being honored at Big Sky for the month of January, skiers and riders are making their way to Montana. And even though there are 35 direct flights between Denver and Bozeman each week, chasing snow calls for the time honored ski bum tradition of hitting the open road. It calls for an Epic Road Trip.
I've taken my fair share four-wheeled adventures, and between cross-country jaunts and half-baked long-weekend college getaways, I've driven the stretch between Denver and Big Sky more than once. Most would stick to I-25 and I-90, making for the fastest route at 11-and-a- half hours (a leisurely cruise for any seasoned snow-chaser or road tripper). But a truly epic road trip calls for scenery, adventure, and quirky rest stops in podunk towns, and we're calling for an alternate route via Western Wyoming. The extra hour is worth its weight in scenic and small-town gold.
7am: Denver, CO
Lock your skis in the rack, hit I-25, and don't stop until Colorado is behind you. At Cheyenne, take I-80, and head towards Breakfast in Laramie.
9:30am: Laramie, WY
While Big Sky local, food connoisseur, and West Virginia expat Chad Jones recommends the "great food and pies" at Perkins, skip the sit-down chain and pull in for a quick coffee and made-from-scratch baked goods at Coal Creek Coffee in downtown Laramie's historic district.
2pm: Boulder, WY
Gas station snacks and stunning mountain views can tide you over until a late lunch near Boulder, WY, population 75. Keep your eyes peeled for Wyoming's own Brigadoon: a tiny diner oasis filled with Carhart-clad ranchers that only reveals itself to hungry road trippers on their way to Montana. Without proof of existence from any phonebook or webpage, you'll just have to take my word that this no-name place exists; I stumbled across the roadside gem on a trip through Wyoming in 2010. You'll know you've made it when you spot the stand-alone log cabin eatery - it's the only building around. Sit at the swiveling stools at the low countertop and order a burger - in meat country like this, sampling the beef is a must.
5pm: Jackson, WY
Two hours later, you're in Jackson. Stretch your legs with a lap around the town center with its iconic antler archways, but don't get sidetracked when you spot fellow skiers - the free skiing, a fraction of the crowds, and three times the terrain await you in Big Sky.
7pm: Island Park, ID
In the summer months we'd lead you through Yellowstone National Park, but roads close to vehicles there come winter, and instead you'll head northwest to Island Park for dinner. A little fancier than your average ski bum haunt, Last Chance Bar and Grill at the TroutHunter is true fine western dining. Relax in the high-ceilinged dining room and enjoy gourmet game before hitting the road for the final stretch.
10pm: BIG SKY, MT!
Pull into the Huntley Lodge for check-in and hit the heated pool with a Lone Peak IPA from Chet's Bar and Grill to unwind. Then head to Whiskey Jack's to dance the night away to live music. Skiing the best conditions in the Rockies and over 3,300 acres of terrain is on the agenda for tomorrow, but you don't have to worry about waking up early to catch first chair. This is Montana, where "lift line" isn't in the vocabulary, and good snow sticks around long after the lifts open. After a whirlwind Epic Road Trip, you'll have all the time you need for truly epic skiing.
If you've fed your inner steez monster lately, you've likely been out in the totally rad conditions shredding the gnar at Big Sky - there's no question that with all this La Nina snow, Big Sky has some sicky gnar pow right now. But after watching a recent documentary on Shane McConkey, Scott Gaffney, and the infamous Squallywood scene at Squaw Valley, I had to wonder not how gnarly Big Sky is, but how G.N.A.R.ly it is.
Gaffney's Numerical Assessment of Radness, that is. It's a point system attached to sweet moves on the slopes - each line, drop, and stunt has its own numerical value assigned to it. G.N.A.R. gained momentum at Squaw Valley in the 90's when Rob Gaffney published the official rules in his book, Squallywood, and skiers started competing for the gnarliest lines. The look-at-me ski-bum culture was highlighted and celebrated, tongue-in-cheek, as skiers earned extra credit points for skiing naked, passing gas and claiming it in a crowded tram, having the best goggle tan, proclaiming that they were the best skier on the mountain, and calling out pro skiers (Hey, McConkey! I can't believe you are a pro. I am so much better than you!).
With McConkey's death in March of 2009 while doing a ski stunt in Italy, and the premier of G.N.A.R. the movie in December 2009, there's been somewhat of a G.N.A.R. revival as the documentary about an official G.N.A.R. competition (skiers competed for a $25,000 jackpot!) began sweeping the nation. In Snowmass a few weeks ago, my friends mock-pole-whacked and invisible cornice (extra G.N.A.R. points for three or more ridiculously unnecessary whacks) and proudly announced before dropping a line: "Hey, look at me! I'm going to RIP this s#*t up!" As Squaw native Greg Lindsey says, "you can't just get rad by yourself, you know, you gotta tell people about it."
This attitude is common among ski-area locals, and Big Sky has its fair share of serious G.N.A.R.- types. But has the official G.N.A.R. attitude made it to Montana?
I decided to find out.
On a scenic with some green-skier friends up the tram, I didn't even bother bringing my skis up to lone Peak. But the rest of the skiers in my car were planning their runs - what they would dare drop, what they wouldn't. "Well whatever you guys are skiing," I pronounced, skis nowhere in sight, "I hope you know I'm the best skier on the mountain."
"That makes two of us," a skier holding Volkl's new Mantras replied.
In the Mountain Village that day, 20 pro skiers and riders were signing autographs as a part of their work with Big Sky Resort and Big Sky Youth Empowerment, a non-profit that mentors at-risk youth and introduces them to skiing.
"Hey dude," I said to a pro as he signed a poster for me. "I can't believe you're a pro. I am so much better than you are."
"Gnarly!" he replied. Or, then again, was it "G.N.A.R.ly?"
On Facebook a Big Sky local recently posted a helmet cam video of himself pole-whacking a cornice before dropping in. "Hey guys, what's goin' on," he yells to some nearby skiers. "You might wanna watch this, I'm the sickest skier on the mountain."
So it seems as though the G.N.A.R. is spreading, or at least the G.N.A.R. knowledge. Either way, it's good to keep in mind that the G.N.A.R. mentality inherently pokes fun at itself, and true bro or no, ski culture is all about enjoying yourself. So don't be taken aback the next time you're on the tram and someone breaks out and Ego Claim and tells you he's the best skier on the mountain. Just calmly rip one, claim it as your own, then tell him that while that's all well and good, you've got to go call your mom while you take some turns on the Big Couloir. You'll be way ahead on G.N.A.R. points already.
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